Africa's last Eden? The Okavango Delta: The 'river which never finds the sea'
Wading through water jungles, our mokoro slid gently down the narrow waterways, along the winding hippo- paths and avenues, revealing a route through the thick papyrus bed.
The Okavango Delta is the stuff of planet earth episodes. This extraordinary delta system consists of 6,000 square miles of lagoons, flood plains and little islands. Just trying to visualise its size is difficult! In a country which is consistently very dry, this oasis in the north of Botswana is a source of freshwater and a haven for many wild animals. It is Botswana's crowning natural jewel. Water flows into the panhandle of the delta annually from the Angolan highlands, and then spreads over the entire delta, which is very flat. By October, much of the water has evaporated, and the delta recedes leaving only dry silt and mud where once there was water and life.
We spent two days camping at Nguma Island Lodge. Tucked away at the edge of Guma Lagoon, after a 20 minute drive off the main road, we then had to unload all our gear into a 4x4 and were driven the last 12km off road to reach the campsite. It definitely felt like we were out in the wilds!
The next morning we set off on a speedboat through the main lagoon channel to a small island. Along the way we spotted crocodiles basking on the bank and a stunning malachite kingfisher up close.
Once at the island we hopped into two-seater mokoros (traditional African canoes) and our guide, Isaac took us out deeper into the heart of the lagoon. Gliding through waterlily beds on the water, Isaac made me and the other girls water-lily garlands to wear. Sitting back and just absorbing the quiet rhythms of the delta was bliss. There was something magical about knowing we were following in the footsteps of hippos, as we used their little canals , expertly hollowed out, providing a way through the dense water vegetation.
If you're visiting the Okavango Delta I cannot reccomend enough a small plane ride, as part of your itinerary. Yes it is pricey, ours cost $150 for a 45 minute experience, but it was something I chose to splash out on and I have no regrets. Seeing the lagoon system from above with a bird's eye view is extraordinary! Only from the air can you begin to appreciate the sheer size and diversity of this watery world. The patchwork maze of green and blue spreads out before you and if you look closely, you can even spot tiny figures, wild elephants and hippos meandering in the waters. We used Delta Air, and flew out of Maun airport. One of the best things I did on the trip, hands down.
One of my favourite photographers : Frans Lanting, produced a photobook named, 'Okavango: Africa's last Eden', (definitely check out his legendary work if you haven't already!) and I must admit it certainly lives up to its reputation as a place of unparalleled nature and beauty. Still, could this 'Eden' be under threat in the future? There have recently been proposals to dam parts of the river in Angola which feeds the delta, and so as ever this fragile ecosystem, although vast and impressive is ultimately vulnerable to the ebb and flow of mankind's actions.
